Wave Formation

Ocean waves primarily form when wind transfers energy to the water surface. The process begins with small ripples that grow larger as wind continues to push against them. Wave height and length depend on wind speed, duration, and the distance wind travels over water (fetch). Different wind conditions create various wave types, from gentle swells to powerful storm waves.

Wave Movement

Waves transport energy, not water mass, across the ocean surface. Water particles move in circular patterns, with their diameter decreasing with depth. In deep water, waves travel independently of the seafloor, but as they approach shore, friction with the bottom causes waves to slow down and grow taller. This interaction leads to wave breaking when the wave height becomes too great relative to water depth.

Coastal Impact

As waves approach coastlines, they shape beaches and coastal features through erosion and deposition processes. Breaking waves create longshore currents that transport sediment parallel to the shore. Wave refraction around headlands and islands focuses wave energy, while diffraction spreads wave energy into sheltered areas. These processes continuously modify coastal landscapes and influence marine ecosystems. Shutdown123